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Wise prophet on teen culture

11     Hanging out, that great American pastime, is no idle pursuit for Irma Zandl. From a
2 pavement café in Greenwich Village, New York, she watches the nine-to-fivers on their
3 way to work. Lunchtimes, she lingers over spaghetti in an Italian restaurant, noting fashion
4 and food crazes. Most afternoons, when the streets are filling up with teenagers out of high
5 school, she is out there too, sipping an espresso, just [id:43392].
26     Dressed head to foot in black, with bleached hair, blood red lips and pale
7 complexion, she could pass for any young Madonna clone. But Zandl is a youthful 40, and
8 [id:43393] is her livelihood. A monitor of teenage culture, she runs her own successful
9 business as a style forecaster. Call it sociology, anthropology or just plain observation, it
10 earns her up to $2,000 a day. 'These streets are my [id:43394],' she says. 'I talk to the kids. I
11 look. I listen. I like them.'
312     Outside a Broadway record shop, two young women, in black leggings with short
13 tulle skirts on top, stroll by. 'I saw that look coming two years ago,' she says with some
14 [id:43395].
415     Such accurate [id:43396] has ensured that companies such as Pepsi Cola, Johnson &
16 Johnson and McDonald's employ her as a trend consultant. What she calls 'her early
17 warning intelligence' influences how they market their products to teenagers.
518     Zandl's company, Xtreme Inc, is one of a handful of marketing consultancies
19 specialising in the [id:43397] factor. What sets her apart, according to her clients, is her
20 ability to immerse herself in the teen culture. 'Most consultants study the market from a
21 distance,' says Aaron Kennedy, associate marketing manager for Pepsi Cola, 'but
22 [id:43398] lives, breathes and eats it.'
623     A former Revlon marketing executive, Zandl moved to a more senior job in a
24 smaller cosmetics company. There her [id:43399] spotting new directions (she introduced
25 Day-Glow nail varnish for example) gave her enough confidence to set up her own
26 business.
727     The Day-Glow nail varnish was instinct alone. Now, five years on, she has a more
28 scientific base - a panel of 1,400 young people aged between eight and 24 - from which to
29 draw her conclusions. Each month she holds discussion groups throughout the US. In
30 groups of eight or more, young people talk about their 'feelings' about everything from
31 hair gel to Mikhail Gorbachev or the future of the planet.
832     Zandl's findings may come as a shock to anyone who believes that youth is
33 synonymous with acne, anger and angst. What young people want, she believes, is clean
34 living on a clean planet. 'There is a real reaction ahead against the liberal attitudes
35 fostered by the Sixties, such as free love and role reversal. [id:43400], girls tell me they want
36 to stay at home with the children again. Both sexes see that all the free love didn't
37 necessarily bring happiness. And boys think that the New Man who originated from the
38 Sixties - the sensitive type - is [id:43401].'
939     Apart from the return to traditional roles, materialism looks like surviving the
40 Nineties, [ id:43402] teenagers are first-time buyers, so acquiring things is a thrill. Zandl is
41 also sure that the environmental and spiritual concerns of the so-called New Age are not
42 just temporary. 'It looks as though the [id:43403] of the Nineties will be conservation and
43 conservatism.'
1044     But there is still one crucial question which remains unanswered. When will
45 everyone stop wearing black? 'Colour is definitely coming back into the wardrobe,' says
46 Zandl. Then, perhaps thinking of the new conservatism, she adds: 'But not quite yet.'
 
     from 'The Sunday Times', October 14, 1990