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Cashing in on a world of sorrow

11     This month readers of American glossy magazines are being treated to a campaign
2 from the Esprit clothing company. A black girl stands in profile looking fed up. Next to
3 her is a slogan: 'End racism and the killing of my people in the streets.' It is horrid to be
4 cynical- but honestly. What is this ad saying? 'Want to end the killing of blacks in the
5 streets? Simply buy some lovely Esprit clothing, and the nasty racism will end.' Or
6 perhaps: 'Be a bit startled by this advert, and - hey - why not buy some Esprit clothing
7 while you're at it?'
28     The ad is just one of several in a US television and press campaign featuring real
9 young people, giving their thoughts on a range of moral issues: abortion, the rainforests,
10 Aids control and the land rights of native Americans. The trend for using real people in
11 clothing ads is nothing new. But this right-on selling through human and social issues is a
12 vibrantly current thing.
313     According to Mark Edwards of the advertising industry magazine Campaign, 'This is
14 mainly a trend in companies which advertise across a lot of countries. The global approach
15 in the past has been to find the lowest common denominator with a wide appeal, such as
16 success or feeling good, often producing adverts so sickeningly bad as to be meaningless.
17 This is a way of finding a common denominator which is less low and very big - birth,
18 death, love, hate.'
419     The people at Esprit would be very hurt by all this. Barbara Shafer, the company's
20 promotional consultant, describes how, for many years, Esprit has been putting its money
21 where its mouth is as far as youth is concerned, sponsoring youth projects and allowing
22 employees paid time-off during the working day to do voluntary work.
523     'We wanted to let the youth of America know that we really understand they have a
24 lot on their minds. We wanted to give them a platform. It's a way of giving something back.
25 If we sell clothes from the ads as well, then that's great.'
626     But Barbara is a realist. She acknowledges that 'you can't educate everybody in the
27 world in one month', The point is that 'the intention behind the ads is a good one', though
28 the company accepts that there will be objections from different minority groups to
29 individual ads.
730     And yet, with advertising being such a pervasive medium, with such able
31 communicators behind it, you can see the appeal of using it to promote world-improving
32 ideas at the same time as product-selling ones. Why not try to make young people think,
33 while selling them clothes, rather than just making them want to be tall, thin and pretty?
834     The answer is that the combination of the cynical process of selling, with its
35 emphasis on short, simple messages, and the - difficult, complex, huge - process of
36 addressing the world's problems is not exactly a match made in heaven. The needs it
37 creates for integrity, commitment, research, sensitivity and communicational brilliance is
38 too much to ask of money-making corporations and human ad-men.
939     Even when companies are as careful and committed as can be, their good intentions
40 can still come to grief. The Independent Television Commission (ITC) has therefore stated
41 that it has 'serious reservations about attempts to merge social messages, however well-
42 intentioned, with commercial messages where there is no direct relevance between the
43 two'. As the ITC stated at the same time, though, the right to freedom of speech, even
44 from advertisers, must be respected.
1045     But let us not be old miseries. When the Esprit ads bit the British newsstands and
46 screens, go ahead, write in with your world-improving ideas and try to get in the photos.
47 I'm certainly going to. This is what I'm going to say: 'The amount of money wanging
48 around in the world of advertising is a bloody disgrace, and everyone who works in that
49 business knows it. Let them carry on spouting whatever nonsense they want at us, but cut
50 all their wages by 60% and give all that money to The Poor. ' Woolly? Too easy? Oh come
51 on. My heart was in the right place when I said it.
 
     from an article by Helen Fielding in 'The Sunday Times', September 29, 1991