| | So, Should You Buy a Diamond? |
| | |
| | By TOM ZOELLNER |
| | |
1 | | Jewellers know the look, the shy | | | | single working mine. The GAO said, |
| | mixture of hesitation and happiness | | | | with bureaucratic dryness, that such |
| | that crosses a man’s face when he | | | | figures were “not plausible”. |
| | buys an engagement ring. He wants | | 5 | | The Kimberley Process has two |
| | this piece of clear carbon to embody | | | | loopholes that can’t be easily |
| | all the love he feels for his intended | | | | plugged. The first, as the U.S. |
| | and to represent the new life they’re | | | | report’s findings indicate, is that it |
| | embarking on. I felt it five years ago | | | | would be difficult to design a better |
| | when I became one of the 1.7 million | | | | tool for money laundering, arms |
| | American men who buy a diamond | | | | dealing and cross-border smuggling |
| | ring each year. Later, my engagement | | | | than a diamond - all that liquidity in |
| | unravelled and I began to think again | | | | such a tiny space. Diamonds can be |
| | about that ring and about the diamond | | | | bought with dirty money, moved |
| | trade that produced it. I realized | | | | across African borders with relative |
| | there were questions I should have | | | | ease, given false paperwork and then |
| | been asking about that diamond beyond | | | | sent onward to the trading centres of |
| | the carat size and the price. | | | | Europe. |
| | Primarily, should you even buy a | | 6 | | The second is that Kimberley |
| | diamond? | | | | concerns itself only with nations that |
| | | | | | are in a state of war as defined by the |
| | | | | United Nations. This essentially |
| | | | | [Id:36925] all kinds of miserable deeds in |
| | | | | places like Angola, which is still |
| | | | | recovering from a grinding 30-year |
| | | | | war and where murder and robbery |
| | | | | are facets of daily life in the diamond |
| | | | | fields. I was told that miners have |
2 | | The answer depends on whom | | | | been gutted if they were suspected of |
| | you ask. The diamond trade would | | | | having swallowed a stone. |
| | say yes. Watchdog groups like Global | | 7 | | The diamond industry deserves |
| | Witness would say no. Eight years | | | | credit, however, for taking the first |
| | ago, Global Witness produced | | | | steps toward ending the diamond- |
| | damning evidence of jewel-related | | | | related slaughter. And, yes, the gems |
| | slaughter in several African nations. | | | | can be used to build up a nation’s |
| | It caused an international scandal | | | | infrastructure rather than tear it |
| | and gave rise to a policing | | | | apart. While the nascent democracy |
| | mechanism called the Kimberley | | | | of Botswana does not have a |
| | Process, which requires diamond- | | | | diversified economy (65% of export |
| | exporting nations to seal their stones | | | | income comes from diamonds), its |
| | in a tamperproof container, with a | | | | calm political climate proves that |
| | document stating they were not | | | | these stones are not always corrosive |
| | mined in a war zone. | | | | to the places they come from. |
3 | | Has this worked? To research my | | | | Namibia is taking steps toward |
| | book, The Heartless Stone, I | | | | creating a home-grown polishing |
| | travelled to Africa, where diamonds | | | | industry, adding a long-overdue |
| | are mined in conditions that range | | | | value-added layer to the extraction |
| | from the orderly to the horrific, and | | | | process. A sudden collapse of the |
| | found virtually no oversight of the | | | | diamond trade would spell disaster |
| | violence-prone alluvial-mining sites. | | | | for these countries and cause |
| | Many stones have made their way out | | | | starvation and chaos in other |
| | of the jungle and into suburban malls | | | | diamond zones in Africa. |
| | via somebody’s lower intestinal tract. | | 8 | | It will not be a movie such as |
| | [id:36922] the diamonds are not smuggled | | | | Blood Diamond or even the |
| | or traded for guns, the wages for the | | | | Kimberley Process that determines |
| | miners can be outrageously unfair. I | | | | whether America’s favourite |
| | met a team of diggers in the Central | | | | gemstone can be purchased ethically. |
| | African Republic who were routinely | | | | That’s up to the consumers, who |
| | paid $200 for large-carat diamonds | | | | should insist that jewellers show |
| | that would easily retail for $40,000 | | | | them proof that their suppliers have |
| | in the U.S. | | | | a System of Warranties statement on |
4 | | There is persuasive evidence that | | | | their invoices, demonstrating |
| | the supply chain is easily infiltrated. | | | | compliance with the Kimberley |
| | A September U.S. report1) said flatly, | | | | Process. Even if this doesn’t prove |
| | “U.S. control systems cannot help | | | | that a diamond is clean, it proves that |
| | deter illicit rough diamonds from | | | | customers care about the source of |
| | entering the legitimate trade.” | | | | their icons of love. |
| | Another disturbing finding: the U.S. | | | | |
| | reported exporting more diamonds | | | | Tom Zoellner is the author of The |
| | than it received in 2003; [id:36923] trade | | | | Heartless Stone |
| | imbalance for a nation without a | | | | |
| | | | | | Time |
noot 1: from the U.S. Government Accountability Office (GAO)